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Second Chance Garage

For the Classic Car
Restoration Enthusiast

Second Chance Garage

Second Chance Garage

For the Classic Car
Restoration Enthusiast

Second Chance Garage

Second Chance Garage

For the Classic Car Restoration Enthusiast

Second Chance Garage

HOW TO

Restoring a Zenith Stromberg Carburetor Linkage

By John Gunnell

We were getting ready to put together the engine controls on the Triumph TR250 we have been restoring. Initially we sprayed the upper section of the accelerator-to-carburetor linkage with Eastwood's zinc-rich paint, but it looked more like light gray primer than bare metal. With the rest of the engine looking spiffy, we wanted the linkage to have a nice bare metal look with rust protection.

Photo 1: the parts from the upper section of the Triumph TR250 accelerator linkage. The long rod has been blasted and wire wheeled. The other parts have been painted with Eastwood's rust-fighting galvanized paint.

Photo 1: the parts from the upper section of the Triumph TR250 accelerator linkage. The long rod has been blasted and wire wheeled. The other parts have been painted with Eastwood's rust-fighting galvanized paint.


The parts of this linkage that we will be talking about in this article are parts 30-45 in the accompanying catalog illustration (Photo No. 2). In three cases two or even three of these parts are required. We also removed three tiny internal parts and one cotter pin (four parts in all) from each of the three rod ends to clean up the socket joints. These parts aren't shown separately in the catalog.

Photo 2: catalog illustration showing the parts to the complete linkage. This article cover the upper section (parts 35-40). There are over 45 parts if every nut and bolt in the assembly is removed. Note that spring No. 31 is missing.

Photo 2: catalog illustration showing the parts to the complete linkage. This article cover the upper section (parts 35-40). There are over 45 parts if every nut and bolt in the assembly is removed. Note that spring No. 31 is missing.


This adds up to a total of 32 parts that we are dealing with in just the upper section of the linkage. All these parts are listed below. Most are numbered to match the illustration. Parts not sold separately are not in the illustration.

Part #Part DescriptionQuantityCost
30 Control rod assembly 1 129.95
31Spring1NA
NSSlotted end plugs3NA
NSEnd plug spring3NA
NSEnd plug socket spacer3NA
NSEnd plug cotter pins3NA
32Locking washer1.25
33Support Bracket1NA
34Bell crank lever118.85
35Shouldered bolt18.95
36Locking washer1.25
37Plain washer1.35
38Nut1.35
39Throttle stop1NA
40Locking washer1.30
41Nut1.40
42Control link assembly128.95
43Rod end39.15
44Locking washer2.20
45Bolt2.50
Total32217.45*
Notes:
NS=Not shown in illustration
NA=Not available (Part is made of "unobtanium")
Prices based on Fall 2014 Moss Motors catalog and may be outdated
Illustration code number not the same as Moss part numbers
*NA parts will have to be found used, substituted for or fabricated and will add to cost

At this point we'd like to suggest that most car owners probably have no idea that this type of linkage is so complicated or that purchasing all 32 parts (new, reproduction, used or fabricated) could cost around $400. This is a good example of why auto restoration is a long, tedious and expensive process.

We started by photographing both sides of the assembly from various angles (Photo 3 shows the opposite side) so we'd know how to orient the parts for re-assembly. Disassembly of the three rod ends comes first. You can see all three of these in Photos Nos. 1. One that has already been blasted and polished up is at the right-hand end of the long rod. The two other rod ends are screwed onto a short rod at either end of the rod. (These stick up highest in both photos).

Photo 3: We started by photographing both sides of the assembly from various angles. Compared to Photo 1, this photo shows the opposite side. The photos were taken  so we'd know how to orient the parts for re-assembly.

Photo 3: We started by photographing both sides of the assembly from various angles. Compared to Photo 1, this photo shows the opposite side. The photos were taken so we'd know how to orient the parts for re-assembly.